REVIEW ­ ENTERTAINING POLISH GUESTS
Two contrasting experiences eating out in Lancaster

Catering for the gastronomic needs of a couple of friends from Poland is easy in Lancaster. Lots of good, distinctive local produce available for meals in: salt marsh lamb and other locally-reared meats and poultry, tasty and varied cheeses, and lots of good seasonal fruit and vegetables.

But the pressure of entertaining in the home wears thin after a while and eating out seems an attractive, washing-up free prospect. Lancaster is not short of passable and even decent restaurants, so for the first evening out the Water Witch seemed a good place to celebrate our guests' arrival.

My partner and I have eaten there on several occasions over the last three years, and never been disappointed. Expensive, yes - but for local, first-rate ingredients, stylish but sensible cooking and excellent presentation it scores very highly indeed.

So off we four trot and kick off with a selection of the new Lancaster Brewery offerings. These are a 'proper beer' drinkers dream, and a welcome reappearance on the local real ale scene.

Duly stimulated, we launch into the main courses. J tried the local sausage (from Maddison in Carnforth), R sampled the lamb fillet, partner was curious about the chicken breast stuffed with asparagus and smoked salmon, and I had the rib-eye steak. We were all delighted with our choices, and by the varied collection of fresh vegetables served alongside ­ nicely al dente (except the gorgeous, creamy mash) and fresh of taste.

Not a morsel was left some twenty minutes later, and four very contented diners had enjoyed local fare cooked to perfection. With portions that generous (but not grossly so), a rich dessert was not an option, so a selection of four cheeses rounded off the meal.

Coffee and liqueurs followed, and over three hours after arrival, four very happy bunnies were mellow and very comfortable. Even with the bill, which came to just over £100, including three bottles of wine. Well, the Poles only come over once a year ....